When most Japanese people think of Kobe, this is what they would typically think of:
「神戸」と聞いたとき、皆さんの多くは以下のような場面をイメージされるのではないでしょうか？
Beautiful public architecture – such as Port Tower and JR West’s Sannomiya Station
美しい公共建築物－例えばポートタワーとJR三ノ宮駅
Classy cafes and patisseries おしゃれなカフェやケーキ屋さん
Homes of Western and Japanese fine art, such as the Koiso Gallery and the Hakutsuru Museum
和洋の美術品が揃った素敵な場所－例えば小磯美術館と白鶴美術館
Kitano, the Foreign Quarter 北野の異人館街
Not to mention these beautiful Hankyu trains that take you there
そして、三宮へ連れて行ってくれる美しい電車
However, this is only one small part of my hometown – and until now I never thought of exploring the other hidden corners.
Thus, I decided to go on a hike through those corners on November 23, 2021 – starting with the Hyogo and Nagata Wards.
これまで神戸に帰っても「昔懐かしい、慣れ親しんだ場所」を再訪することがほとんどでしたが、これは神戸市のほんの一面にすぎません
2021年の勤労感謝の日、これまで歩いたことのない「隠れた神戸」を歩くことにしました まずは兵庫区と長田区から
First Stop: Old Men’s District 最初は「オジサンの聖地」から
The best way to see a city is on a bus – so I start my tour with a ride from Sannomiya on Kobe City Bus Route 7.
初めての街を見る最高の手段は「バス」 三宮から神戸市バス7系統で今日のツアーをはじめます
I get off in Shinkaichi – the “old men’s district” that used to be a bustling shopping area – and start my walk.
「オジサンの聖地」新開地でバスを降りて歩き始めます
I got a kick out of these colorful sculptures portraying Shinkaichi as a place where literally every guy – regardless of age, socioeconomic status, or whatever – can let his hair down and relax.
「オジサンの街」を表現したこのカラフルなオブジェ、受けますね～
The centerpiece of Shinkaichi is this boat racing lottery ticket vending center called Boatpia, operated by the local government. Yes, gambling is legal in Japan as long as you bet in venues run by local governments – and proceeds are used to support various charities.
This facility has dozens of TV screens where you can monitor races being held all around the country. The premises are kept in spotless condition, and is patrolled by dozens of security guards who make sure no suspicious behavior takes place. Thus, no photos from the inside.
新開地の目印といえば舟券売り場「ボートピア」 極めて清潔に保たれ、警備も徹底しています
The political opposition is strong here – as you can see in the offices of the Japanese Communist Party’s Hyogo Prefecture Committee being located on the main arcade. Just sayin’.
日本共産党兵庫県委員会の事務所 ここは野党が強いようです
If you are into traditional Japanese comedy, here is a theater where you can catch some live rakugo.
落語を嗜む方なら この「喜楽館」は外せないでしょう
“I am the Way, the Truth, and the Life” – Minatogawa Dendokan Church of the Japan Evangelistic Band, strategically located among pachinko parlors near the north end of Shinkaichi. Apparently this denomination was started by British missionaries in the early 1900s.
日本伝道隊・湊川伝道館 パチンコ店に囲まれつつ存在感を発揮しています
How does this 50-year-old fit in Old Men’s Territory?
50歳の小生、オジサンの聖地に似合いますかね？
Bustling Minatogawa 湊川は大賑わい
Right after exiting the north gate of Shinkaichi arcade, I walk into Minatogawa Park – a rather rare park which incorporates a road overpass.
Samurai on horseback is Kusunoki Masashige, who fought and died in this neighborhood and is considered one of the brightest military minds of feudal Japan. Many Kobeans refer to him affectionately as Nanko-san.
新開地商店街を抜けるとそこは湊川公園 神戸のヒーロー「楠公さん」こと楠木正成が迎えてくれます
立派な陸橋型の「湊川トンネル」が110年の歴史を物語ります
Minatogawa Park is the south end of a very interesting – and very active – shopping arcade.
This izakaya (Japanese gastropub) at the entrance looks very inviting. I tried to visit a day later, but alas – it was closed. I shall return!
湊川公園はとても面白い、そして賑わいのある商店街の入り口
この飲み屋、雰囲気が気に入って次の日に行ってみたのですが、何と閉店 次回こそは！
I was not too hungry today, so I checked into a little coffee shop full of local-looking customers.
It’s called Omotenashi おもてなし, on the ground floor of the Heartful Minatogawa complex.
The sandwich features cuts of a fluffy, fresh omelette. I commented on this while settling the bill, and the hardworking auntie-in-charge sent me off with a friendly wave 🙂
今日はあまりお腹が空いていなかったので「ハートフルみなとがわ」1階にある喫茶店「おもてなし」にて軽い昼食
唯一空いていた席に着くと 他の客はほぼ全員地元民風
ミックスサンドの卵焼きが実に新鮮で美味しかったので、お勘定のときにそのことを伝えると 女将さんが手を振って見送ってくれました
It looks like they converted the showcase in this former Japanese sweets shop into a model railway layout. That little boy’s undivided attention is like yours truly 45 years ago.
閉店した和菓子屋さんのショーケースを鉄道模型のレイアウトに再利用しているようで 男の子の真剣な眼差しは45年前の小生にそっくりかも？
It’s encouraging to see the Higashiyama Shopping Arcade full of life, especially after seeing shuttered shopping areas three days ago.
3日前に春日野道の寂れ方を見た目には この東山商店街の賑わいは心強い限りです
Into the Hills 長田区の奥地へ
After leaving the shopping arcade, I continue along the New Minato River – and encounter a stream of people coming my way. Looks like the city authorities opened the old Minatogawa Water Tunnel for public viewing.
東山商店街を抜け、新湊川を西へ 旧湊川隧道の一般公開日だったようです
Into the hills I go – and so does the Kobe Electric Railway. Does anyone know what that small truck doing is up there right beside Nagata station? Drop me a note if you do!
これから山に入っていきます
神戸電鉄長田駅隣の台に乗った軽トラ、いきさつをご存じの方はぜひご教示下さい！
Heading north along the Karumo River. I sure hope this river does not get flooded!
苅藻川沿いに北上 洪水がないといいのですが…
三叉路を曲がり渓谷地帯へ 緑にあふれているのはいいけど、この日気温が低かったこともあり寒々とした感じがします
Turning into a bit of a gorge. Full of greenery, but the low temperatures today accentuate the sense of loneliness here.
Welcome to Maruyama. This area was developed as a resort in the 1930s, but now looks pretty barren.
People still do live here, but many shops appear as though they have been closed for more than a few years.
Living here does not seem easy, with so many steep hills and limited public transport.
長田区の北の果て、丸山へようこそ
1930年代にリゾート地として開発された地区で今も人が住んでいますが、廃業してずいぶん経つ商店が多いようです
坂ばかりで交通手段の限られた地区に住むのは 容易ではないように感じます
This sign about posting things outside this water facility seems to lacks the most important word: STRICTLY PROHIBITED. I wonder how it became so faded.
最も肝心な「厳禁」の文言が色あせてしまった看板
I climbed as far north as Ichiriyama-cho. Too bad I could find few public spots with this kind of view.
今日は結局一里山町まで登りました このような眺めを公道から楽しめる場所が少ないのが難点
OK, it’s time to hop on the bus back to flatland!
さぁ、市バスに乗って平地に戻りましょう
Here is a rough illustration of my route from Shinkaichi to Ichiriyama-cho:
新開地から一里山町までのルートはざっくりこんな感じです
“I LOVE My Hometown! この街が大好きやねん！”
Kobe City Bus route 4 takes me straight from the hills down to the flatland part of Nagata Ward.
This area had a thriving rubber processing and shoemaking industry, until the earthquake on January 17, 1995 devastated the neighborhood.
市バス4系統に乗り、山奥から一気に平地に下ります
かつてゴム加工と靴造りで栄え、阪神・淡路大震災で壊滅的な被害を受けた地域です
今ではベトナムからやってきた人々が街に新たな息吹をもたらしています
Today, folks from Vietnam are breathing new life into the community – as you can see at this food stand.
新長田駅近くの商店街も銭湯も新しくなりました
Shopping arcade and public bathhouse near Shin-Nagata station, all new.
“I love Kobe – and I REALLY LOVE Nagata! This place is FANTASTIC! Come back, y’all!”
Kobe will not die – as long as love of hometown is here!
生まれ育った街を愛する心 これがある限り神戸は死なず！
