Wow, we’ve already crossed the halfway point between midsummer and midwinter. I trust you are doing well.
早くも秋分の日を過ぎました お変わりありませんか？
The meteorologist’s advice was that this year’s Autumnal Equinox public holiday (Sept 23) would be sunny and warm, so I decided to take this opportunity to hike a part of my prefecture/state that I had not visited on foot – the southern end of the Miura Peninsula.
There is only one railway line (Keikyu Corporation’s Kurihama Line) that serves this area. No expressways, either – only two-lane roads.
Pretty much off the beaten path. This is a prime target for me to explore.
今年の秋分の日、首都圏は快晴との予報 これまで歩いたことがなかった三浦半島の南端を歩くことにしました
この地方を走る鉄道は三崎口に向かう京急久里浜線のみ その南側は城ヶ島と三崎港以外著名な観光スポットのない「陸の孤島」
そこに惹かれました
Farm, Ocean, Sun
On my way there I take the Yokohama City Subway, then change to Keikyu at Yokohama. I want to walk along the beach as much as possible, so I decide to get off at Tsukui-hama 津久井浜 where my train arrives at 8:07.
I do some stretching in the station square, and then set off. Perfect conditions – just the right temperature, brisk sea breeze.
I am joined on the beach by castle builders, yogi, and dozens of anglers.
アプローチは横浜市営地下鉄で横浜に出て京浜急行に乗換 少しでも海岸を歩きたいので、8:07着の津久井浜で下車することに
駅前広場でラジオ体操をしていざ出発 暑すぎずほどよい気温、心地良い潮風 完璧なり！
城を作る子どもたち ヨガに取り組む人 釣り針を垂れる人 思い思いに海を愛でています
I say goodbye to the beach for a while and climb a rather steep hill, then turn at the Yamazaki convenience store onto a farm road to stay as close to the water (and away from the traffic) as possible.
Look what I found. It felt as though I was back in Furano or Biei in central Hokkaido – only better, with the ocean right in front.
しばし浜辺を離れて急坂を登り、海に近づきたく（そして車通りの多い道を避けたく）ヤマザキYショップを左折して農道を歩くとこんな光景が
大好きな富良野か美瑛に戻った錯覚を起こしかけました すぐ先は海なので彼の地以上に魅力的かも？
The city of Miura is known for fresh veggies and seafood – and the scent of ripe scallions is irresistibly sweet.
三浦市は新鮮な野菜と鮮魚で有名なところ 長ネギの香りはいと甘く…
What smells and tastes good to humans is also attractive to birds of prey – and the seafront areas of Japan are home to one such species, the black kite (known locally as tobi トビ).
The farmers here seem to have developed an innovative method to keep those birds away – kites in the shape of black kites.
You will also see these birds hovering over popular tourist spots such as Enoshima, reconnoitering for food carried openly by people below and then swooping down for the catch. In fact, I was enjoying a snack on the beachfront there back in May when it suddenly vanished from my hands with a loud bang – and I did not even see the culprit making the dive.
You have been forewarned – keep food well concealed on the beach!
海水浴場でトビに弁当やお菓子をかっさらわれたご記憶はありますか？小生、今年の春まさにそのような事態に遭遇し言葉を失いました
これだけ海に近いところに収穫間近な野菜があると 同様にトビを警戒せねばなりません
地元の農家さん、なかなか工夫されているようですね
I continue down the road and encounter a fence protecting a waste disposal site, so I turn south into this beautiful farm lane.
These red equinox flowers – known locally as higanbana 彼岸花 (higan flowers) – have finished their season by this time in the neighborhood where I live. This is indeed the southernmost part of Kanagawa.
しばらく農道を歩いていると「三浦市東部浄化センター」の柵に遭遇 右折し海に並行する農道を進みます
小生が住んでいる地域では一週間ほど前に終わった彼岸花 神奈川県最南端に来たことを実感させてくれます
Tender loving care for the baby plants. 大切に育てられていますね
Further down the lane, I come across a spot overlooking an inlet. I followed a family-looking group down to the beach below, but was shocked by the amount of garbage strewn down there.
小さな入り江を見下ろすポイントに到達 ちょうど家族連れらしき集団が浜に向かって降りていったのでついていくと、ごみの散乱ぶりに唖然
Back on the lane. Google Maps tells me that this is where the Imperial Army used to have an artillery site – known as Tsurugizaki Battery 劒崎砲台 – guarding Tokyo Bay. Not known to have fired a single shot in combat before it was dismantled after World War II.
農道に戻り歩を進め、旧帝国陸軍の劒崎砲台跡に到達 第二次大戦後解体されるまで、一度も実戦射撃を行わなかったと聞きます
It’s past 11AM by the time I reach Oura beach 大浦海水浴場 near the southeastern corner of the peninsula.
The signs direct you to several minshuku (B&B-style inns that typically serve dinner as well). I would love to stay next time and try the freshly caught seafood!
大浦海水浴場にたどり着いたのは11時過ぎ 次回は民宿に泊まって海の幸に舌鼓を打つのもよいかもしれません
I continue down the road through Maguchi Harbor 間口漁港. Numerous boats in this area offer one-day fishing trips on a shared or charter basis.
間口（まぐち）漁港 この一帯は観光客向けの釣り船が多数営業しており「乗合」「仕立（すなわち貸切）」両方可能です
Hold Your Hat! 強風注意！
Shortly before noon, I reach one of the highlights of today’s hike – Tsurugizaki Lighthouse 劒崎灯台. The first lighthouse here opened in 1871, soon after Japan came out of 250+ years of isolation and opened herself to international trade. The current building, built in 1925, is a replacement for the original destroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake two years earlier.
The view is magnificent with plenty of marine traffic to watch, but the wind is quite strong today. Watch your cap/hat!
正午前、今日のハイライトのひとつ「劒崎灯台」に到着 1871年に初めて開設され、関東大震災後の改築を経て日本の近代化を支えてきました
外航貨物船も釣り船も頻繁に通り見飽きませんが、この日は強風波浪注意報が発令
帽子が吹き飛ばされるのでは？と気が気でありません
I could have continued on the rocky edge, but walking such terrain is becoming mentally exhausting and I have quite a distance to go. Shall climb to higher ground.このまま岩場を進んで毘沙門に向かう選択肢もありましたが、強風の中の岩場歩きは精神的に疲れます城ヶ島までまだまだ先は長いので、高いところに上がります
The noontime sun is beating down hard on me as I stop by a convenience store in front of Matsuwa Harbor 松輪漁港 to buy a drink.
Fishing fleet is heading out – business or tourist?
水分を補給すべく松輪漁港前のコンビニに立ち寄った頃には真昼の陽ざしが強烈に照り付けてきます
漁船が船団を組んで出港しつつあるようです 観光客を乗せているのかな？
Unplanned Detour, Unexpected Treat 予期せざる回り道、予期せざるご褒美
Heading west from Matsuwa Harbor and Ena Bay 江奈湾, I turn a bit inland to avoid the long tunnel on the main road. Yes, I am afraid of the dark.
My original plan was to turn toward the sea on the detour road, but I pass it up considering the distance still remaining.
松輪漁港と江奈湾を離れて西へ 暗所恐怖症の小生は長いトンネルを避けてやや内陸へ
途中左折して毘沙門浜に向かおうとも思いましたが 先が長いので断念し直進
Little gas/petrol station on a farm road…
田舎道の小さなガソリンスタンド
JA (farmers’ cooperative) branch. The shed is wide open with bags of fertilizer stacked up – low risk of theft, I presume!
JAの倉庫には肥料が山積み 盗難の可能性は低いということでしょうか
Uh oh – looks like I am heading further inland. Not what I intended – time to make a left turn soon.
That’s Keikyu Bus route #35 heading toward me. It’s bound for Miura-Kaigan station, which I passed by this morning.
あらあら、かなり内陸に入り込んでしまったようです 早めに左折して軌道修正せねば
こちらに向かってくるバスは京浜急行バス「海35」系統三浦海岸駅行き 小生が歩いてきた道を逆方向にたどります
It’s rather unusual for a Buddhist temple to fly our nation’s flag – this practice is usually associated with Shinto shrines.
海応寺という臨済宗の寺院に日の丸 神社が国旗を掲揚するのはよく見かけますが…
Further down the path to the ocean, I encounter a very unusual sight – a loop on a farm road. I took not just one but two videos so you can appreciate the design.
First, a vehicle demonstrating:
海に向かう道をさらに下ると、何と道がループになっています
その姿をわかりやすく捉えようと、動画を2本撮ってみました まずは軽トラが通ります
Next, yours truly walking down – and being overtaken by additional vehicles:
続いて、小生も歩いて降ります
And here is the loop as seen from a distance. Wish I had a drone to take a bird’s-eye view!
少し離れたところから俯瞰してみました こんなときにドローンがあればなぁ…
Taking a break beneath a working windmill, located in the middle of a roadside park.
県道わきの公園で 電気を作ってます
End of the Road
After 20 kilometers of hiking, I have finally reached the Jogashima Bridge 城ヶ島大橋 that will carry me to today’s destination.
Reaching the bridge can be complicated. I was in no mood to take the circuitous approach, so I end up climbing this staircase which turned out to be extremely steep. Reminded me of a ladder on a warship that I visited during an open house.
津久井浜から歩くこと20キロ、ついに城ヶ島大橋に到達
回り道をしてアプローチする気になれず、はしごのような急な階段を昇ることになりました まるで横浜港で見学した護衛艦のラッタル！
Crossing into the island of Jogashima.
何はともあれ、城ヶ島上陸
Awagasaki Lighthouse 安房崎灯台, end of the hike. My feet are worn out, but I am filled with a sense of accomplishment after discovering the unadorned beauty of the tip of the peninsula.
終点「安房崎灯台」に到着 足はボロボロですが、半島南端の着飾らない美しさを発見して充実感に浸ります
It will be a long walk to Misaki Harbor 三崎港, so I elect to hop on the bus – note the sign honoring the tuna that put this place on the map.
三崎港まで歩くと長いので、ここはバスに乗ります マグロをあしらった標識に注目
By the time I reach the harbor it is almost 15:30. I could stay and enjoy the seafood, but that will leave no room for dinner at home.
Time for a quick snack of ice cream, yokan (red bean paste dessert) and green tea from the convenience store before hopping on another bus up the road to Keikyu’s Misakiguchi Station 三崎口駅.
I could take the next train which leaves at 16:46, but that train only has longitudinal (subway style) seats.
No way – I am waiting for the 16:56 train which uses the 2100-series trainset, equipped with seats facing forward!
三崎港に着くと既に15時半近く マグロを賞味するのも一案なれど、家に帰って夕飯が食べられなくなるのもいかがなものか…
コンビニでアイスもなかと一口羊羹を買って飢えをしのぎ、再び京浜急行バスに乗って三崎口駅へ
先発の快特青砥行きはロングシート ここまで来てそれはない！ということで次発の泉岳寺行きを待ちます
