Great Circle Ride Around the Edges of Greater Tokyo

First, a brief summary in Japanese まずは日本語でごく簡単にまとめましょう:

本帰国してから半年以上、両親と暮らしつつwork from homeしていると「誰にも邪魔されることなくじっくり本を読める時間」が持ちたくなります
しかしコロナウイルスのおかげで出身大学の図書館には入ることができず、公立図書館もカフェも席数に限りあり
そこでJR東日本の「休日おでかけパス」で「走る書斎」にこもることにしました
行って帰るだけでは芸がないので、「走る書斎」に入る前に少し回り道をすることにしました

After moving back to Japan and “working from home” for months while living with parents (not uncommon in this part of the world), I was becoming anxious to have some uninterrupted reading time.
Because of the coronavirus my alma mater’s library has closed its doors to graduates. I cannot count on public libraries and cafes, as competition for space is becoming even more intense than usual.
Then, I realized that the East Japan Railway Company (JR East) sells a weekends-only pass which allows unlimited travel for one day on all JR trains within a 70-to-90-kilometer radius from Tokyo Station – for a bargain price of 2,720 yen (approximately $25 US). What’s better, I can buy an upgrade for just 800 yen (less than $8 US) per train on some lines and enjoy the quiet and comfort of an upper-level reclining seat for a full 2.5 hours.
Off I go!

Detour Along the Northwest Edge

At first I thought about riding for a couple of hours from Yokohama 横浜 up to Oyama 小山, stopping by in Tochigi 栃木 for breakfast and a walk, and then coming back to Oyama to take another train in the opposite direction to Odawara 小田原 for a soak in the sento (public bath) and a seafood snack.
But when I travel I prefer to have some variety – not just in the type of accommodations, but more importantly in scenery.
So I come up with an alternative itinerary that takes full advantage of the pass’s flexibility. Taking the Hachiko Line 八高線 up to Yorii 寄居, a half-hour ride on the Chichibu Railway 秩父鉄道 into Kumagaya 熊谷. After a short morning visit, a 2.5-hour ride in an upper-deck upper-class seat.

From my home station I hop on the day’s first westbound train at 5:09AM. Conveniently timed transfers at Nagatsuta 長津田 and Hachioji 八王子 put me in Komagawa 高麗川 at 6:54AM, where I make a 4-minute connection to a two-car train bound for Takasaki 高崎.
The northern sector of the Hachiko Line is the only non-electrified passenger line in the prefecture of Saitama 埼玉県. I was planning to wait half an hour to make sure I grab a forward-facing seat, but I find two 4-person blocks (we call them “box seats”) that are completely empty. What a pleasant surprise.

The Dilemma of Japanese Local Trains

My block remains empty for the whole 50-minute ride to Yorii.
I experience a bit of a dilemma every time I ride trains with this kind of seating arrangement. Travelers of yore had no issues sitting together with strangers and striking up conversations en route, but folks these days are far more sensitive about privacy and personal space.
As a result, solo riders tend to prefer longitudinal seats (sitting facing the rail at 90 degrees) to 4-person boxes as you can see in the photo below.

Thus, it is common for newer cars on local trains in rural areas to have more longitudinal seating for better utilization of space and energy. Some types of trains have only longitudinal seats and no transverse (sitting facing the direction of movement, or in the reverse) seats. Reasonable from a purely economical standpoint, but that takes away from the joy of travel and renders us less developed in social skills.
What a dilemma.

Checking out the surroundings during half-hour layover in Yorii. This former supermarket right next to the station shut down 8 years ago, a victim of motorization.

I chose the Chichibu Railway this morning because of its old-time atmosphere. What a surprise to see anime characters all over this former Tokyu Corporation trainset!

But the old-school atmosphere is alive and well when you see wooden poles being used to support the wires that feed this train.

Disembarking in Kumagaya and taking in a few more anime characters.

A Stroll Through the Hot City

When I step outside the station it’s close to 9AM. Perfect timing to try breakfast at this very stylish cafe. It’s in the ground floor of a building with a medical clinic on top – and themed around healthy eating.
The food is fresh and very tasty, but the portion is very small for this hungry boy. Not a bad thing – I can look forward to an early lunch!

Kumagaya is famous for having some of the nation’s highest temperatures in the summer.
Back in the mid-90’s, the local government did some nice cleaning up of the canal that runs through the heart of the city. The result? a spot where folks can cool off a bit.

The canal is teeming with carp, as you can see in the video below:

The temperature display outside this department store accommodates readings of up to 45 degrees Celcius (113 Fahrenheit). The temperature this morning is much more bearable at 26C/80F, but be ready for the red to climb much higher in late July or August.

I return to the station after a 2-hour stroll – and am greeted by sprinklers pouring out some very welcome coolness.

Library on Wheels – Through the Heart of the Megacity

After a very filling lunch of fried pork, chicken, and shrimp I board my train for Odawara.
The upper-deck, upper-class (referred to locally as Green Car) seat is my library for the next 2 hours and 35 minutes. Nice way to read up on the history of Penang, a place I call my third home (see separate entry in this blog). When my eyes are tired I can enjoy the scenery over Starbucks coffee.

What’s So Special About a Through Train from Kumagaya to Odawara?

For decades, virtually all longer-distance trains on the Tokaido Line 東海道線 originated in Tokyo (Central) station 東京駅, while all trains on the Tohoku 東北線 and Takasaki 高崎線 lines originated in Ueno (“oo-ay-no”) 上野駅. Then, in December 2001 JR East opened a route called the Shonan-Shinjuku Line 湘南新宿ライン. This route takes Tohoku/Takasaki trains straight into the Tokaido Line via Shinjuku 新宿 and vice versa. They leveraged a freight line that was seeing low traffic for the value of the land it was built on.
In March 2015, JR East opened a second through route called the Ueno-Tokyo Line 上野東京ライン that works in the same way. Today’s train originated in Kagohara 籠原 (right next to Kumagaya) and follows this routing to Odawara.

Puzzled?
Think of yourself as a student at Cambridge University (north of London) wanting to travel to the beaches in Brighton (south of London) by train. No need to change trains at all – as long as you take a Thameslink train that takes you right through the heart of the big city.
The Shonan-Shinjuku and Ueno-Tokyo routes are to Tokyo what Thameslink is to London. In today’s itinerary, Kumagaya and Odawara are the rough geographical equivalent of Cambridge and Brighton, respectively.

What Does It Look Like?

Actually, this is my first time riding this route through Ueno and Tokyo (Central) stations, straight into the Tokaido Line.
Thus I am pretty excited when our train pulls into Ueno and I know for sure that I do not need to get off.

Through the heart of Tokyo into the central station.

It’s quite a surreal feeling watching the Odakyu Electric Railway pull into Fujisawa after two hours on board the same train – not to mention the ocean view at the mouths of the Sagami and Kaname Rivers before and after Hiratsuka.

Arrival in Odawara after 2 hours and 35 minutes, right on time.
The departing eastbound train seems to have quite a party going on!

The Ending

One important order of business in Odawara – a visit to a traditional Japanese public bath.
Such facilities can look pretty modern these days, but this is the real thing – separate entrances for men (left) and women (right). Not to worry, the interior was maintained in spick-and-span condition.

After a nice hot soak, it’s time for THE Japanese national adult beverage, followed by authentic local tapas.
Kanpai, everyone!

I usually take one of the Odakyu Electric Railway’s famous Romance Car express trains on my way home from Odawara, but this evening I am armed with a very powerful ticket.
Why not enjoy a standard-class box seat in the rearmost car of an eastbound train on Japan’s most important main line?