Japan’s Mother Road 日本の「母なる道」
Many a country has a “mother road” which is considered that country’s historically and culturally most significant.
Old Route 66 would come to mind for the continental US, as would the UK’s Watling Street and Italy’s Appian Way (Via Appia).
多くの国には歴史的・文化的に特別な意義を有する「母なる道」と呼ぶべき街道があります
米国のルート66、英国のワトリング・ストリート、イタリアのアッピア街道がそれに該当するでしょう
Japan has had several historic highways linking the various parts of the nation to the Tokugawa-era capital of Edo, now known as Tokyo.I believe many of my fellow Japanese would agree that the Tokaido (東海道, literally “eastern seaboard road”) which runs from Edo to the ancient imperial city of Kyoto, is Japan’s most important ancient highway. One of the best-preserved sections of this old road is located in the mountains of Hakone, in the prefecture of Kanagawa where I currently live. This approximately 32-kilometer/20-mile section between the cities of Odawara and Mishima is also considered the most challenging part of the old highway.
The eastern half of this mountain sector, from Odawara to Lake Ashi, has been one of my favorite routes for a day hike – but I had not hiked it in a long time. Thus I returned on the final Saturday of October 2021. Join me!
日本の「母なる道」はどれか？
江戸から全国各地に伸びる「街道」の中で最も重要なのは、やはり京との間を結ぶ東海道でしょう
小田原～三島間の「箱根八里」、とりわけ小田原から芦ノ湖に至る「東坂」は当時の面影を最大限保存していると言われ、私の最も好きなハイキングコースのひとつです
前回行ったのはいつだったっけ？と思い出せないほど長らく歩いていなかったので、2021年10月の最後の土曜日に歩いてきました
Starting from Odawara スタートは小田原から
The cheapest way for me to reach Odawara 小田原, the starting point of today’s hike, is on the Odakyu Electric Railway’s Odawara Line 小田急小田原線.
This company is well-known for their fleet of all-reserved-seat Romance Car express trains, but I am taking an ordinary commuter train (albeit a faster one) because I wanted to hit the road earlier. The view of Mount Fuji from behind the cab is no less impressive.
箱根旧街道を歩くなら、誤魔化すことなく小田原駅から歩きたいもの
少しでも早くスタートしたいので、町田6:50発の小田急小田原線急行小田原行に乗車 やや長い旅ですが、運転台直後で「かぶりつき」をしていると苦にはなりません
富士山の眺めに幸先のよさを覚えつつ…
It will be a long hike, so it’s time to fuel up at this cafe inside Odawara station. Doutor might not have the personal touch of Starbucks Japan, but I think their sandwiches are some of the best.
家を出る前に一口食べてきたものの、長丁場に備え出発前に駅ナカのドトールでもう一口
接客スタイルこそスタバにかなわないものの、サンドイッチの味は格別です
I start off from the station at around 8:35AM. Odawara’s most iconic sight is the old castle dating from 1417. The street along the castle’s moat is a beautiful way to shortcut from the railway station to Highway 1.
8時35分ごろ小田原駅を出発 城のお堀端を行くのは気分がいいです
The first hour is more of a warm-up as we follow Highway 1 up the river to the hot springs resort town of Yumoto 湯本. This is where the Romance Car trains from Shinjuku terminate, and everyone either changes to another train/bus or walks to his/her destination.
Since I am taking the old road, I am making a left turn at Sanmai Bridge 三枚橋 right before Yumoto station. Nice spot to catch an arriving Romance Car.
早川を湯本に向かって遡る最初の1時間はちょっとしたウォームアップ 三枚橋で左折するとき時刻表を確かめると数分後にロマンスカーが到着すると知り…やはり絵になりますね！
NOTE: It is sad to hear that these beautiful 50000-series VSE trainsets will be withdrawn from scheduled service effective March 11, 2022 and fully retired by autumn 2023. They are only 16 years old, but not compatible with platform doors which are becoming a de facto requirement these days. Press release link in Japanese below.
もっとも12月17日付の発表によると、このVSE50000形電車は2022年3月で営業運転から退き2023年秋までに完全引退するそうです ホームドアが事実上義務付けられているこの時代にあっては致し方ないかもしれませんが、車齢16年のかくも美しい車両がなくなるとは…
小田急電鉄のプレスリリースはこちら
Into the Mountains 山の中へ
From Yumoto, the steep gradients begin. The road is often not wide enough for two lanes – drivers and hikers beware.
湯本からはいよいよ坂道 狭い道なので、ドライバーもハイカーも細心の注意が必要です
It’s shortly past 10:30 and I have arrived at Sukumogawa 須雲川, the start of the non-paved trail section. Perfect timing for a break at this very clean public restroom, from where the waste is routed to a special bio-processing facility.
10時半過ぎ、遊歩道の起点・須雲川に到着 バイオトイレで用を足して山道に備えます
Several minutes into the trail, I pass through the Tokyo Electric Power Company’s Hatajuku hydroelectric power station. See how clear the water is.
数分すると畑宿発電所に到着 水の清いこと…
Soon afterward, my legs start to receive some serious punishment on these cobblestones that have been around for at least 300 years. As this slideshow attests, this place is a no-go in bad weather!
発電所から歩を進めること数分 江戸時代の石畳が残る大澤坂の急勾配が足腰に堪えます このスライドショーが示す通り、天気が良くてよかった！
Shortly past 11:30 I reach the little hamlet of Hatajuku 畑宿, which has a number of shops where you can stop by for a drink or light meal. If you want to save your muscle power for the most scenic portions, you can take a Hakone Tozan Bus here from Yumoto station which runs approximately every hour.
11時半過ぎに畑宿到着 お茶屋さんもあり、小休止にはもってこい
景色の最も良い区間のために体力を温存したい方は、湯本駅からおよそ1時間ごとに出ている箱根登山バスに乗るとよいでしょう
The Torture – and the Reward 難路の先にご褒美あり
It always makes sense to pause, catch your breath, and hydrate at Hatajuku, because the steep gradients of the Nanamagari (七曲り “Seven Curves”) are waiting for you. Even for cars this means a continuous 10% grade for 1.2 kilometers…
畑宿を出ると、まもなく七曲りの連続急勾配に差し掛かります クルマにとっても決して楽ではありません
For yours truly, the Dannoki-zaka (“Dogwood Hill”) is the most physically and mentally grueling gradient of this whole hike. It feels like climbing a height of one meter with every meter traveled – yes, 100%.
小生にとって最大の難所「檀木坂」 1メートル進むごとにほぼ1メートル登る（ように感じられる）急勾配が「これでもか、これでもか」と脚を痛めつけます
So I pause, panting with my legs sore, and am treated to a peek of the world below. Time to press on!
喘ぎ登った先にはこの視界 もう少し頑張るぞ！
This crossing tells me that the toughest part is over – and a well-deserved break is soon to come.
この横断歩道に来ると、最もキツイ区間は終わり まもなく待ちに待った休憩タイムです
Welcome to Amasake-chaya (“sweet sake house”), rest stop for centuries of travelers on the Old Tokaido.
For 400 yen (slightly less than US $4), you can enjoy a heart-warming cup of amasake, which is usually made from fermented rice used in the production of sake (Japanese rice wine). The alcohol content is below 1%, so it is legal for minors to drink. They serve completely non-alcoholic drinks as well, so no worries if your body has zero tolerance for alcohol. Flip the slideshow to have a foretaste.
ああ、心身ともに温まるこの甘酒！（スライドショー）
One more climb after Amasake-chaya will bring you to the summit of this road, and then it’s downhill to the shores of Lake Ashi.
甘酒茶屋からもう一か所坂を登ると東坂の最高地点を通過し、あとは芦ノ湖に向けて一気に下ります
Goal!
Past the Hakone Checkpoint Museum 箱根関所跡, down one final slope and heading for the finish line. This is the final slope for athletes competing in the Tokyo-Hakone Collegiate Ekiden Race (in short, Hakone Ekiden 箱根駅伝), widely considered to be the premier sports event of the New Year’s holiday.
BTW, the Checkpoint Museum has exhibits from the feudal days which recreate the office where travelers would be scrutinized for contraband and questioned on the purpose of travel. Worth a look.
山道を抜け、関所跡を通過して箱根駅伝の最終コースをゴールに向かいます
Oh, the view! 嗚呼、この眺め！
After burning some calories, it’s time to load up with a plate of katsu (pork cultet) curry at the Trout restaurant by the lake.
They’ve been in business since 1973, and I have found their curry to be of solid quality.
1973年創業の「トラウト」さんで、山道でたくさん燃やしたカロリーを補給
初めて旧街道を歩いたときと変わらぬ、サクサクしたカツとまろやかなカレーが最高です
After a bus ride down the mountain and a soak in the springs near Yumoto, I head home on a 60000-series MSE Romance Car with my favorite after-bath drink in hand.
Kanpai! Prost! Sante! Cheers!
帰路はバスで1号線をたどりつつ駅伝に思いを馳せ、湯本の日帰り銭湯でひとっ風呂浴びてからロマンスカーMSE60000形で「乾杯！」
