Hi there!
We just came out of Golden Week here in Japan, a string of public holidays starting with Showa Day (see Note below) on April 29 and ending with Children’s Day on May 5.
Thus today’s question: What is your favorite activity on a springtime holiday with gorgeous weather?
My favorite activity is to go on a hike along the seashore, feeling the breeze and listening to the music of the waves – for as far as my mind and body would endure.
When the weather on May 4 this year was forecast to be bright and sunny, there was no way I could pass up the opportunity.
So I hopped on the first train of the day at 5:09am and headed to the seashore.
A thorough warm-up is a must for a safe journey on foot.
There is a small park right on the west side of the causeway leading to the island of Enoshima, with a fishing harbor right in front. What better spot to perform our time-honored national calisthenics routine, following the 6:30am broadcast on NHK Radio One?
For more information on Radio Calisthenics, here’s a good summary:
https://www.nippon.com/en/features/jg00068/
At 6:40am, it’s time to hit the trail – and watch hundreds of surfers already hitting the waves.
This lady appeared to be meditating…
The footpath is filled with more sand than usual…
Thankfully, the local authorities have provided brooms to clear the sand. God bless those souls offering their muscle power to clear the path – they were clearly not uniformed government workers, but local folks here for a workout.
Time for a quick water stop as kickboxing practice and yoga session are in progress – with Mount Fuji as the backdrop.
Been to Denny’s lately?
Here in Japan, this chain is under the same holding company as 7-Eleven and Ito Yokado.
The boule bread is especially fresh and tasty. The facilities, especially the restroom, are spotless.
All this food, including unlimited tea/coffee/juice refills, for JPY 658 (roughly USD 6), including consumption tax.
No need to worry about tips, either – that’s not part of our culture.
As I continue my westward journey, I notice a very fitting design on a moped license plate:
I encounter a fence approximately 2 kilometers before the Sagami River.
It appears this footpath needs repairs from the same storm that ravaged Kamakura back in 2019 (see my earlier blog post).
Detouring on Highway 134 sidewalk. Mount Fuji remains visible ahead.
Crossing the Sagami River into the city of Hiratsuka.
At first I regret not choosing the other side for an unobstructed view of Fuji, but the view from this side is not bad either.
Crossing Hiratsuka on foot can be mentally challenging via 134, so I tried to stick to the back streets.
Very little vehicular traffic, nice scenery.
In many Japanese cities and towns you will find these vertical blue plates telling you what part of the city or town you are in (in this case, 14 Takahamadai).
The city of Hiratsuka goes one step further by providing a neighborhood map at the bottom.
For the second half of my way through this city, I take a main road.
The blue marks at this crossing are for bicycles.
Crossing the Kaname River into the town of Oiso on this rather classic-looking bridge.
The original bridge was constructed of wood when it opened in 1941.
Well sheltered bus stop, with reminders to stay within the fence – but how am I supposed to get there?
Aha – from the backside!
I was looking forward to stopping by this very pleasant gallery cafe on Highway 1, but alas – they are closed on Tuesdays.
Oiso is famous for being the retirement home of Shigeru Yoshida (Prime Minister 1946-47 and 1948-54), but it’s also the place where Niijima Jo (aka Joe Neesima), one of the pioneers of Protestant evangelism in Japan, passed away. How ignorant of me.
If you are into haiku, don’t miss this spot right on Highway 1 in the center of Oiso.
The Shigitatsu-an 鴫立庵 is considered one of the three most prestigious dojos for practicing this classic form of Japanese poetry.
More on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shigitatsu-an
Right next to the Shigitatsu-an is a more modern gallery where an artist was displaying works crafted with leftover felt.
The walls of the gallery were filled with 365 leaf-like collages. One crafted each day from late April 2020 to the same day in 2021. Now that’s discipline and commitment!
I had the pleasure of chatting with the artist, a retired teacher living down the road in the hot springs town of Yugawara. Very nice lady.
After hiking almost 19 kilometers / 12 miles, it’s time for a break – and what better place to take one than the shores of Oiso?
This spot is too deep for swimming but great for fishing. The 24C/75F temperature at 11:30am is perfect for a massage on the pebbles.
From Oiso westward, our route runs parallel to a restricted access highway known as the Seisho By-Pass.
Folks love the thought of driving along this shore, only to discover how congested the roads become.
Especially when there is an accident ahead with 3 or 4 vehicles rear-ending into each other.
Another reason why I prefer to travel by train and on foot wherever I can.
Did my proximity to the sea remind you of tsunami?
They’ve started to install signs showing you which way to run when the ground shakes. I would like to see more.
More detours on the back roads…
After 20+ kilometers of hiking, I am hungry but in no mood to eat anything solid – thus I appreciate the natural sweetness of a traditional confectionery known as yokan.
Made of boiled red beans.
I’ve heard about soldiers in our Ground Self-Defense Force (official name of our Army) carrying yokan as part of their gear when going on maneuvers. Makes total sense.
The yokan helps me reach the town of Ninomiya, where I am met by the Glass Rabbit statue in front of the train station.
This is inspired by the true story of a primary school girl who lost her glass craftsman father in an air raid just 10 days before the end of World War II.
The train he was on board pulled into Ninomiya when the air raid alarm went off. He sought shelter, only to be strafed to death by an American P-51 Mustang.
I am well aware of how this war started in Manchuria, the Marco Polo Bridge, and Pearl Harbor.
Never again.
At the western end of Ninomiya is Oshikiri Hill.
This is just one of the numerous hills that our nation’s top athletes must conquer during the Tokyo-Hakone Collegiate Ekiden Race on January 2-3 each year.
My dad and I watched the race there in 2011, and I was stupid enough to attempt a run up this hill – this is no joke!
I continue into the city of Odawara and find this footpath descending down toward the water.
I dare not go further, for I have a goal to reach.
Almost there.
That’s me at my goal, Kozu station, after 30.6 kilometers / 19.1 miles of hiking…
And that’s me after a nice hot soak in the bath.
Kanpai (Cheers)!
NOTE on Showa Day:
April 29 used to be the Emperor’s Birthday during the namesake Emperor’s reign 1926-1988, before he passed away on January 7, 1989. It was celebrated as Greenery Day 1989-2006 in honor of his dedication to preserving our natural environment, and renamed Showa Day in 2007.
Also see: Public Holidays and Annual Events – Japan-Guide.com
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2062.html